The Taco Stand

Founded in La Jolla, this small restaurant chain takes its looks from Tijuana taco stands

As a general statement, Southern California doesn’t lack taco options – they’re all over the place geographically and in similarly varied degrees of authenticity to classic Mexican recipes. The Taco Stand is both a good and fairly authentic chain, founded in late 2013 in La Jolla, California and mostly San Diego-based for its first four years, expanding to Miami in 2018 and Orange in 2019, then to Laguna Beach, Costa Mesa, and Mission Viejo in 2023 and 2024. Taking inspiration from Tijuana taco stands, The Taco Stand is essentially the West Coast version of NYC’s Los Tacos No. 1, offering a compact menu focused solely on tacos, burritos, and “extras.” Most tacos go for $4, burritos closer to $10, and extras (fries, chips, and churros) for $4 to $12. Sodas and beers are available from a soda dispenser and fridge.

Putting aside standard parking challenges at The Camp, the Costa Mesa location – sandwiched between 1954 Egashira Bakery and Daydrift Coffee – offers a nice though largely self-service experience. Ordering and meal pickup both take place at a counter that sits next to perhaps 30 seats spread across edges of the same counter and bus-it-yourself tables. A salsa bar offers access to at least seven different levels of spice and flavor, plus extra limes, herbs, and veggies, while decor is limited to whatever can be seen in an open kitchen; our eyes were drawn mostly to a huge al pastor pork and pineapple spit, next to a large plancha melting surface for cheeses. Most of our order took 20 minutes to come out, but a substantial portion of chips and thick guacamole ($6.59) was ready to go immediately as we finished placing our order, helping us stave off hunger as we waited.

We tried five different tacos, four from the regular menu and one from a list of three upgraded “volcan” (melted cheese) specials, intentionally selecting a mix of meat and seafood options. Perhaps the best of the bunch was the al pastor taco ($4), which was also the least expensive, with nice pieces of pork and a thin but sweet slice of pineapple, paired with avocado, onions, cilantro, and chipotle salsa. Also very good was the carne asada taco ($4.59), a nice portion of grilled steak with similar garnishes that wasn’t quite up to Tacos Los Cholos levels of smoky perfection, but well-portioned and filling. The Taco Stand puts “mild salsa” rather than chipotle on the asada; you can add more from the self-service bar.

Shrimp was the secret flavor and texture weapon in two other tacos: a shrimp-only cameron ($4.69) and a steak-and-shrimp mar y tierra volcan taco ($6.79), the latter augmented with volcanic-style plancha-melted cheese and greatly benefitting in all regards from the combination of meat and seafood proteins, plus chipotle salsa that was more obvious on the shrimp than the steak. While both of these tacos started in the “good” category, adding self-serve salsas boosted their flavors to just shy of greatness.

Our least favorite in the collection was the pescado taco ($4.69). Made with grilled mahi-mahi, this one was so loaded with sliced cabbage and avocado that we struggled to taste the fish – given the overwhelming toppings, we were glad that The Taco Stand wraps its tacos In-n-Out-style to keep everything from spilling out. But after pulling the avocado off, the mahi-mahi was indeed there, though not especially strong in either natural flavor or grilled char; any included chipotle salsa was also not obvious.

Having tried both Los Tacos No. 1 at NYC’s Hudson Yards and The Taco Stand in Orange County, we’d (shockingly) give Los Tacos a win on flavors and Taco Stand a win on variety of options. Our view is that Los Tacos really stands out in New York because of the East Coast’s lack of authentic Mexican options; here, Taco Stand blends in because of Southern California’s massive collection of excellent taco restaurants. We wouldn’t rush back, but if you’re in south Orange County and don’t want to drive to Santa Ana to Tacos Los Cholos or Navarro’s Taqueria, this is a compelling choice.

Stats

Price: $-$$
Service: Counter
Open Since: 2013 (San Diego), 2019 (OC)

Addresses

2981 Bristol St. Suite B-2
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
949.210.9001

Additional locations in Laguna Beach, Mission Viejo + Orange

Instagram: @letstaco_