
Star Leaf – Tea & Asian Kitchen
The OC location of a China-based, quasi-Thai restaurant chain offers upscale fusion cuisine and afternoon tea
We knew there was something unusual going on when we visited Star Leaf – a moderately upscale Asian restaurant in Old Towne Orange, near Chapman University – late in March 2026: The windows bore signs of two different restaurant concepts, presenting a largely Thai lunch and dinner menu (“Star Leaf”) alongside a decidedly non-Thai, $45/person afternoon experience (“Tea Modern Chinese”) focused on glass kettle teas and bite-sized sweet and savory items. What we didn’t know was that this is the second U.S. outpost of a larger, China-based chain that opened in Pasadena in 2024 and was soon thereafter fisked by the LA Times for backstory inconsistencies and bland dishes. Respected LA-area blogger KevinEats weighed in to characterize Star Leaf’s food as “a neutered, sanitized version of Southeast Asian cuisine, corporate and devoid of soul,” later calling it “my most underwhelming meal of the year!” Triple ouch.
Though we don’t believe in dogpiling, we’re noting those reviews to underscore that our feelings about Star Leaf’s newer Orange location have some precedent in Pasadena. To be clear up front, we didn’t hate our meal at Star Leaf, and truly appreciated its quick, attentive service, nicely decorated ~50-person dining room, and somewhat interesting menu options. But it’s obvious that – a year and a half after those reviews – there’s still room for confusion over what Star Leaf actually is and isn’t doing, how the Orange and Pasadena locations relate, and who’s going to enjoy eating here. Those topics are what we’re going to sort through here.
What is Star Leaf really doing? This isn’t authentic Thai food. It’s also not traditional Asian food. For example, we ordered a fairly common Thai item, chicken satay ($19), and instead of the typical plate of grilled skewers with char and any obvious Thai, Indonesian, or Singaporean touches, received a bowl of sliced cucumbers, a lime wedge, seared pineapple, and sliced chicken, the latter two wet with oil and likely plated directly from a wok. Each chicken bite offered hints of a Thai marinade, and the accompanying sauce looked and tasted at least vaguely peanutty, with the right viscosity, but too little seasoning to do more than glaze whatever we dipped in it.
Similarly, a “Thai som tum green papaya salad” somehow had the most consistently rectangular papaya slices of any version of the typically rugged salad we’ve ever ordered, and at least as much mint, tomato, and mango, yet zero of the funky fish sauce depth and too little salt to make any bite actually excellent. Even a Royal Thai iced milk tea ($5) – generally a gimme at Thai restaurants, and beautifully presented here in an ornate glass – was imbalanced in dairy and sweetness thanks to an overwhelming mixture of condensed milk, heavy cream, and agave. Items like this made us decide to skip any of the menu’s three desserts, and we rarely pass on the chance to sample sweets.
What isn’t Star Leaf doing? Despite the menu’s many references to Thai items, it’s not necessarily trying to be purely, authentically Thai. That much became apparent when we saw Truffle Wok Seared Noodles ($19 to $22), egg noodles cooked with decidedly non-Thai “black truffle sauce,” brussel sprout leaves, and a protein of choice. We were curious enough to try the beef version ($20), and found the overall portion, meat quality, and flavors to be totally fine – neither amazing nor particularly deep, but also not overbearingly heavy on truffle oil or salt thanks to judicious use of a soy-based sauce. Promised Thai basil leaves weren’t anywhere to be seen, though, with sliced cabbage as a substitute; this was one of multiple signs that Star Leaf is really an American-Chinese-Thai fusion restaurant.
How do the Orange and Pasadena locations overlap? The short answer is that the Pasadena restaurant has a much larger menu, including a wider collection of supposedly Pan-Asian items (summer rolls, more soups, more curries, duck salad, Malaysian-style fish, and twice as many desserts – 6), but none of the Tea Modern Chinese small bites, which we didn’t try on our visit. Virtually everything else found at the Orange shop is offered in Pasadena, which also appears to have been decorated much more elaborately, with commensurately higher price points for some items.
We did sample dishes found on both menus, finding their culinary origins to be somewhat ambiguous. “12 Hr. Braised & Grilled Angus Short Ribs” ($35) might easily have drawn on popular Thai, Korean, or Chinese recipes, but ultimately struck us as less Asian than Western. A long, uncut, and not particularly edible rib bone arrived alongside five thick slices of slightly overcooked beef, each lightly salted and seemingly soy-marinaded, but devoid of internal juices and not particularly worth eating alone. Chimichurri-like chili lime dip thankfully saved each bite, while a whole roasted tomato sat by it for reasons unknown, ultimately providing the plate’s only other opportunity for moisture. Similarly, a Thai Prawn Ceviche ($17) was unusually plated with (quite a few) full cooked shrimp atop large slices of uncooked tomato, red onion, lime, and cilantro. Heavy on citrus, lightly spicy, and sort of like Yum Goong salad, it was still different – and flatter, minus apparent sambal or fish sauce – in execution.
Who’s actually going to enjoy Star Leaf? Despite the aforementioned negative reviews, Star Leaf isn’t truly a bad restaurant – it’s just mid, and not what it initially appears to be. Generations of American customers have enjoyed “Chinese” meals that wouldn’t be served in China and “Japanese” meals featuring steaming onion volcanos and greasy flying shrimp. In short, Star Leaf’s “Thai” menu is for those diners – ones who want something different from the norm but aren’t particularly concerned over whether it’s authentically Thai or merely nicely presented. We’re not in that crowd, but know plenty of people who are, and won’t crap on them just because Star Leaf’s recipes don’t match up with our taste memories from… well, anywhere in Asia. We’re not planning to return for a second visit, but this is a fine fusion restaurant, and we feel privileged to live in a place where there are so many great alternatives to simply okay food like this.
Stats
Price: $$-$$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2011 (China), 2025 (OC)
Address
149 N. Glassell St.
Orange, CA 92866
714.790.4060
Instagram: @starleaforange