
Medan Kitchen – LA
In Rosemead, an Indonesian market offers an incredible assortment of prepared meals and imported snacks
As Indonesian restaurants have become nearly impossible to find in Orange County following 2024-2025’s Indo Ranch, Rice & Noodle, and Uncle Fung Borneo Eatery closures, traveling to LA County is the only viable option: There’s still an Uncle Fung in Long Beach, and its older sibling Borneo due north in Alhambra. But local restaurant expert Edwin Goei recommends driving just a little further east to Rosemead for Medan Kitchen. Opened in 2020, this Indonesian grocery store offers an extensive selection of freshly prepared, ready to eat dishes five days each week, and when we visited, it was very close to spectacular – a word we never used for OC Indonesian food, and wouldn’t use to describe OC’s two remaining not-quite-Indonesian options (the Malaysian Belacan Grill and Malay-Singaporean Seasons Kitchen).
Understand two major details about Medan before you visit. First, and unlike Indo Ranch – which was an Indonesian market with an actual restaurant inside – Medan is technically a grocery store with no restaurant: There are two microwave ovens inside and park bench-style seating out front, and a too-small parking lot with lots of great nearby alternatives (including Sam Woo BBQ) competing for your interest. Don’t let yourself be distracted. One of Medan’s three rooms offers freshly packaged Indonesian meals on nearly the same scale as Tokyo Central‘s Japanese prepared foods section; another houses shelves and crates of savory dried goods, while the last displays mostly imported packaged goods ranging from snacks to candies and drinks. You pick items and pay for everything at a central counter.
In a word, Medan’s selection of Indonesian items is incredible. Tables, carts, and refrigerators hold banana leaf-wrapped Nasi rice dishes, dumplings, pastries, sweetened teas, and sauces you can take home or eat on the spot. Virtually everything is under $20, with most items in the $7 to $12 range, and although many are available every day, Medan posts daily special offerings on its Instagram account. Beyond offering a blissfully overwhelming number of choices, Medan’s execution quality is high enough that it’s hard to choose “wrong.”
That brings us to the second and more serious caveat: Virtually all of the food is offered at room temperature, which is to say “not warm.” Remember the reference above to two microwaves? As you’re paying for your food at the counter, you’ll receive heating instructions – “one minute for this one” and “three minutes for this one” – that would have kept our small group at the microwaves for 15 or 20 minutes. While most of what we ordered tasted good enough at room temperature, dining this way is a sub-optimal experience compared with ordering a proper meal at a typical restaurant. Having said that, we’d sooner return to Medan and jump through its microwave hoops than order a less interesting and delicious meal again at Borneo.
Arriving with empty stomachs and inspired by Medan’s broad selection, we went crazy sampling dishes on our first visit. Two different rice combination dishes – a banana leaf-wrapped Nasi Uduk Serundeng ($17) and a Nasi Kuning Komplit set ($19) – offered separate takes on Indonesian rice, the former with lightly coconut-flavored rice and the latter with tumeric rice and sambal. The leaf peeled open to reveal a mound of the rice plus five different items (chicken with satay sauce, stir-fried beans, a spicy egg, spicy potatoes, and spicy padi oat crackers); the tumeric set included one nice piece of beef rendang, a chewy piece of unbattered fried chicken, delicious tofu tempeh and spicy potatoes, and another egg. Each of these sets could have been a meal itself, and though we preferred the more complex garnished rice, spicier flavors, and more generous sauces of the Komplit set, every included item was delicious, with a nice mix of soft and crunchy textures across each combination. Even without reheating, the fresh, never-frozen flavors and textures were clearly the products of recently completed, no-corners-cut kitchen work.
Other items we tried included choipan janet ($7, five light, Kalimantan-style steamed chicken, shrimp, and jicama dumplings that would have been ideal served warm); pastel ayam ($8, two fine Indonesian chicken curry puffs that would have been great roaring hot); satay ($16, five sticks of dark meat chicken satay with rice cakes, shallots, and an excellent peanut sauce); krokets ($13, four large, mild croquettes filled with a little beef and mostly bread crumbs and vegetables); oseng mercon ($16, a standout “firecracker meat” dish with spicy tendon, tripe, and beef cubes); and a dessert of lapis surabaya ($13, five slices of a lightly sweetened, plain sponge cake with cocoa stripes).
Two consistent threads crossed virtually all of the items we tried: Everything save the dessert struck us as a very good value for its price, and with the exception of the curry puffs – an item done well at many places – the other dishes were either equal or noticeably superior in quality to versions we’ve tried at now-shuttered Orange County restaurants. In other words, if you’re looking for great Indonesian food and don’t mind the driving distance and dish reheating mandate, Medan Kitchen should be a must-visit. While we hope another full-service Indonesian restaurant fills OC’s current gap, we would gladly visit a local Medan on the regular if its quality was up to the Rosemead shop’s level.
Stats
Price: $-$$
Service: Counter
Open Since: 2020
Addresses
8518 Valley Blvd. #102
Rosemead, CA 91770
626.693.6231
Instagram: @medankitcheninc, @medankitchengroceries