
Mama Lu’s Dumpling House
Hidden inside a Tustin market, this Chinese restaurant is OC's only location of a San Gabriel Valley chain
Growing from humble beginnings as a cottage food operator selling wontons and dumplings from a San Gabriel Valley home into a popular chain of Chinese restaurants, Mama Lu’s Dumpling House has had its ups and downs over the years – infamously including jail time for the original owners due to a tax evasion scheme. But unlike similarly tax-troubled Chinese chain Sam Woo, which closed locations and exited Orange County in 2021, Mama Lu’s survived and expanded, adding its first OC location in 2023.
All but hidden inside Rivera Food Service, a commercial supermarket in a Tustin plaza near Usuki Japanese Cuisine, FOB Fish Grill, and Thai Chaiyo, the OC location of Mama Lu’s is hard to spot from outside. Walk through Rivera’s doors and you’ll find it in a cavernous, boxy space off to the right, immediately next to Tustin’s location of Taiwanese dessert specialist Meet Fresh. Decorated with just enough Chinese decor to distract guests from looking at the warehouse-like market next door, the restaurants collectively offer seating for around 100 people, including generously spaced tables, benches, and chairs. The only unusual part of the environment on our visit was the sound of religious music and talk radio playing through the restaurant’s speakers – continuously loud and distracting during our meal.
Mama Lu’s menus include one page with 16 dim sum options ($7.50 each, available until 5 PM every day), a collection of 13 lunch specials ($17 each, available on weekdays until 5 PM) on the back, and a separate list of typical northern Chinese/Taiwanese-style dishes on a two-sided, table mat-sized menu card. The list begins with dumplings and related dishes ($8.50 to $16.50), continues with soups, noodles and fried rice dishes ($15 to $21), drinks ($2.50 to $8.50), meats, seafood, and vegetable entrees ($18 to $23.50), and two desserts ($8 to $10). As a general statement, portion sizes are generous, despite the fact that base prices are typically higher than what people were paying five years ago for the same items.
We tried a handful of dishes to sample as many categories as we could on our first visit. From the dim sum menu, we picked and really enjoyed the deep fried meat dumplings ($7.50/3), glutinous rice footballs with a minced pork and vegetable filling, which were a little thicker and shell than typical, but fun to eat because of their crispy outer shells, sweet soft rice frames, and meaty centers. Based on recommendations, we skipped both Mama Lu’s har gow and once-famous xiaolongbao soup dumplings, which appear to have been prepared and sourced elsewhere, and instead ordered spicy wontons ($16.48/10) from the dumpling menu. Each was mouth-fillingly huge but surprisingly muted in flavor, despite sitting in a small pool of ostensibly spicy chili vinegar sauce, and being paired with plenty of cilantro and slippery peanuts. While filling, we wouldn’t feel any need to order the wontons again.
The single best item we tried at Mama Lu’s was the honey garlic pork chop ($17), one of three pork chop variants on the menu, and reputably the top choice. While we ordered it as a lunch special at a 50-cent discount from the normal price, what arrived was a large plate with more pieces of relatively low fat bone-in pork then we’ve seen on any entree in years, each a lightly glazed, hot, and crispy chop that was just right in terms of garlic and sweetness intensity – neither overly sugary nor weak in garlic flavor. It was an excellent value even before two side items arrived: a legitimately delicious, no corners cut single serving of tangy hot and sour soup, and a similarly sized portion of steamed white rice. Since the only way to order that soup normally is a larger $18 bowl with enough for several people, solo diners who appreciate hot and sour soup should visit Mama Lu’s for the lunch special instead of dinner.
The last item we tried was one of only two official “desserts,” both made with freshly cooked chocolate chip-infused waffles ($8), one adding ice cream (+$2). Unlike old photos online, the waffle Mama Lu’s served us was not a Taiwanese puff waffle, but rather a large, hot Belgian waffle cut into quarters and paired with sprinkles, one scoop of whipped cream, and two scoops of cookies and cream ice cream. While there was nothing even vaguely Chinese about this dessert, every bite was tasty and fun to eat because of the contrasting temperatures and textures. Those seeking more traditional Chinese dessert options can find several other items hidden in the menu’s dumplings section – sesame balls, red bean pastry, and deep-fried Chinese donuts – or take their chances with Meet Fresh next door instead.
Legal issues aside, Mama Lu’s has maintained a strong reputation outside of Orange County for years, and while the Tustin location has long been viewed as a good but not great facsimile, we can understand why it spawns both fans and foes. Get the right items and you’ll have an affordable, large, and legitimately delicious meal; here order the wrong things or get the wrong server, and you won’t know what all the fuss is about. Based on our positive experience, we would certainly return, though we’ll likely continue exercising caution when choosing the next round of dumplings and entrees to sample.
Stats
Price: $-$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2008 (SGV), 2023 (OC)
Address
17662 17th St.
Tustin, CA 92780
714.316.7712
Instagram: @mamalusdumplinghouse