
Indigo Cow
A Seattle-based ice cream concept arrives in Costa Mesa promising Japanese Hokkaido milk soft serve
In Japan, where traditional confections such as mochi date back hundreds of years, ice creams are a comparatively recent dessert, thanks in part to the country’s historically limited access to dairy products. Milk production began on Japan’s northernmost island Hokkaido in the mid-1800s and kicked off in earnest in the 1870s, using now famous processes to preserve a rich, distinctive flavor based on 3.6% to 4.6% fat content and no additives. Because of the fat levels and use of ultra-high temperature pasturization, Hokkaido milk commonly develops a lightly caramelized, butterscotch-like taste that accompanies its natural creaminess – reasons fans continually and preferentially seek it out as an ice cream ingredient.
Founded in Seattle by a former Hokkaido resident, Indigo Cow spent five years selling ice cream based on imported Hokkaido milk – and expanding to two LA locations – before arriving in Orange County. The original Seattle version debuted as an ordering window at Yoroshiku, the owner’s izakaya, and the 2026-vintage Costa Mesa location similarly occupies the right front window at Ramen Tatsunoya. There’s a single table outdoors with two chairs, and no interior seating for Indigo Cow guests; you’re generally supposed to order a cup or cone from very limited options, then go elsewhere with it.
While some Indigo Cow locations offer three portion sizes, Costa Mesa’s has only two, “small” ($4.50) and “regular” ($6.50). You can choose from two flavors, basic Hokkaido milk or matcha (+$1.50), and swirl both for an added $1. The default is a cardboard cup, but you can opt for a black waffle cone for $1.50 more, and add toppings ranging from mochi or matcha sauce ($1) to black sesame and yuzu sugar ($2) or a triple-matcha “centric” combination or warabimochi, sauce, and powder for $2.50. On our visit, a “limited” option – a cup of Hokkaido soft serve with yaki-imo sweet potato paste brulee on top – was available for $6.50 (small) or $9.50 (regular).
A brief note on this article’s timing: We visited Indigo Cow months after it first soft-opened inside Ramen Tatsunoya – on its official grand opening weekend, when any quality/production-related issues should have been sorted out. Moreover, we’ve been highly familiar with authentic Hokkaido milk ice creams for quite some time, including more recent variants such as Cremia, a silky, high-fat version that’s currently quite popular across Japan, and know that some local connoisseurs (such as Papi’s Gelateria) have been careful to distinguish gelatos made with Hokkaido milk candy from ice creams made with actual Hokkaido milk. So given Indigo Cow’s “Hokkaido milk soft serve” branding, we were genuinely excited to see how close it came in flavor and texture to versions we’ve enjoyed over the years.
We tried three different items at Indigo Cow: a relatively deluxe swirl of Hokkaido milk and matcha in a waffle cone, with black sesame and yuzu sugar toppings; a small cup of matcha topped with “dark chocolate wall” fast-hardening sauce; and a small yaki-imo brulee soft serve. The good news was that each of these desserts was unquestionably tasty – the deluxe version alternated between a variety of flavors and textures, ranging from crystallized and lightly citric sugar to a thin, nutty sesame sauce, twin creamy soft serves, and the crunchy, seemingly charcoal-tinted, substantial cone. Even the simpler cup with matcha and chocolate shell was tasty, though the matcha wasn’t super strong, it was entirely enjoyable, alternating soft cream with hard dark chocolate bits once broken up and mixed.
Our consistent issue with each of the Indigo Cow desserts, however, was one that we’d hoped would be resolved by grand opening time but wasn’t: There was little to no obvious Hokkaido milk flavor or texture in the desserts we sampled, and the ice/water levels were similar to regular soft serve – not even as creamy as Stricklands. When ice creams are made with dense Hokkaido cream, their fat content enables ribbon-like scalloping waves, and a distinctively rich, butterscotchy flavor is obvious. We didn’t see any signs of either the texture or flavor in either the twist or fully matcha soft serves, and only picked up hints of caramelization in the cream of the yaki-imo brulee, quite possibly because there was freshly torch-finished sugar in the sweet potato paste next to it. Of all the desserts, the yaki-imo was the closest in flavor to Hokkaido milk ice creams we’ve had in Japan, but still not quite the same.
Our take on Indigo Cow is straightforward: If you don’t have a deep love or need for the distinctive flavor or texture of Hokkaido milk ice cream, and are comfortable with a limited selection of flavor options bolstered by toppings and charcoal cones, you’ll almost certainly enjoy the soft serve here for what it actually is. But if you’re hoping for traditional Hokkaido-style ice cream, you may be disappointed.
Stats
Price: $
Service: Counter
Open Since: 2021 (Seattle), 2026 (OC)
Address
277 E 17th St.
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
714.486.3374
Instagram: @indigo_cow