
Grand Lux Cafe – Las Vegas
The Cheesecake Factory's younger, stripped-down sibling still has six locations left, including two in Las Vegas
Twenty-one years after The Cheesecake Factory’s first location opened in Beverly Hills, the first Grand Lux Cafe opened as a 24-hour dining option directly next to the casino at Las Vegas’s Venetian Hotel – one of the chain’s eventual dozen restaurants, later joined by a similar option at Palazzo, and non-casino locations in Florida, Illinois, New Jersey, New York, and Texas. Originally pitched as a step up from its older brother, supposedly taking inspiration from global menus and design cues from European and American cafes, Grand Lux ultimately settled into a second-class role, serving Cheesecake Factory-style large plates at above-average prices, minus most of its parent company’s signature cheesecakes.
Living in that shadow hasn’t left Grand Lux without value, though it’s unclear as to how consistently its recipes are now executed from location to location: For example, a memorably elegant and powerfully dressed full-leaf caesar salad offered at its Las Vegas locations was instead served as a plain chopped version at its (now-shuttered) Miracle Mile, Chicago restaurant. Much of the current menu focuses on American and Italian-style salads, pastas, pizzas, burgers, steaks, and seafood, though earlier “global” recipes remain largely intact. While Vietnamese-style spring rolls and shaken beef dropped off the menu, guests can still choose from a variety of Asian-American-ish recipes across items like crispy Thai shrimp, Korean ribs, General Tso’s cauliflower, and Chinese-Indian Indochine shrimp and chicken. If you can put authenticity aside, the flavors and portions tend to be at least solid, and substantial collections of drinks (including refillable lemonades and non-refillable mocktails/cocktails) either create or add to the fun.
While it’s possible to find a handful of cheesecakes on the dessert menu – alongside a few basic cakes (butter, red velvet, carrot, and fudge) – “baked to order desserts” with 20- to 30-minute prep times have been the chain’s “specialty.” But they’re not particularly special: so-so New Orleans-style beignets, molten chocolate cake, a dozen cookies, warm apple pie, and roasted pineapple upside-down cake have remained available for decades; a box with four chocolate cupcakes has since disappeared.
There was a point – right around the time when Cheesecake Factory lines were out-of-control long pretty much everywhere, particularly at Fashion Island – when we were actively excited about potential expansion of the Grand Lux chain, as the opportunity to enjoy American salads with fun drinks and desserts was more of a draw. Now that the Cheesecake lines have settled down (and its larger, superior menu is easier to enjoy at any time), we wouldn’t go out of our way to stop into a Grand Lux in Las Vegas, and that seems to be the case for people in at least half of the places where the chain operated before. That said, we would rather have a Grand Lux here than its younger sibling, North Italia, which offers mediocre Italian food in a charmless box-style plaza space in Irvine.
Stats
Price: $$-$$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 1999 (Las Vegas)
Addresses
3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(Inside The Venetian)
702.414.3888
Additional locations in Florida, Las Vegas, New Jersey, New York + Texas
Instagram: @officialgrandluxcafe