Fonda Moderna

When visiting the small Mexican restaurant Fonda Moderna, it’s initially hard to understand why this place – an accurately self-proclaimed “steakhouse of taquerias” – is inside Tustin’s Mess Hall, a frequently vacant food hall in the middle of a business park. With two primary digital menu boards divided into “street,” “guisado,” “prime meat,” “seafood,” and “vegan” sections, Fonda Moderna offers guests the choice of a remarkable 24 different proteins or vegan substitutes, most available as tacos, burritos, or bowls. This upmarket alternative to Tacos Los Cholos turns out to be commonly owned with the similarly ambitious restaurant Anepalco in Orange, and its odd choice of locations (here and in a former Newport Beach La Salsa) includes spaces that haven’t been kind to lesser concepts.

That pressure may be why Fonda Moderna’s pricing is more accessible than “steakhouse of taquerias” might suggest – though certainly not cheap. Nine tacos in the street and guisado categories (largely beef, chicken, or pork) are each $6 per taco or $15 per burrito; the latter three categories range from $5.50 to $15 for tacos, $14 to $26 for burritos, and $16 to $30 for bowls, with vegan all inexpensive and “A5 Japanese Kobe” beef at the highest prices. At $8.50 to $9.50 price points, mishima wagyu beef, NY steak, porterhouse, filet mignon, picanha steak, or Spanish iberico pork tacos make $6.50 baja fish and Pacific shrimp alternatives look cheap. Those looking to try a bunch of tacos can order a mini sampler of the guisados with mini tortillas for $15.

Other options include a salad ($12), guacamole and chips ($14), corn ($8), nachos ($15), quesabirria ($16), and steak frites ($16), though the latter wasn’t available on our visit. For dessert, only popsicle-style paletas were on offer, with prior flan and churro desserts nowhere to be found.

We tried five of the tacos, and enjoyed them all, but had both favorites and some reservations. There were three consistent threads: very good homemade flour tortillas, atypically excellent protein quality, and other ingredients that were a little off. Several of our tacos were missing the chihuahua or vegan cheeses promised on the menu, and one included beans we’d requested be left out. These issues didn’t stop us from enjoying everything we received, but we’re not fans of beans in tacos, and most of Fonda Moderna’s recipes include them by default.