Butterfly – Culver City

José Andrés distills DC Mexican hotspot Oyamel into a rooftop taco and ceviche bar for LA

Washington DC’s award-winning Oyamel Cocina Mexicana is unquestionably one of the country’s best Mexican restaurants, offering a robust combination of authentic small plates, tacos, soups, and beverages that would certainly pass muster in Mexico. Seizing the opportunity to reimagine the restaurants at Culver City’s boutique hotel The Shay, chef José Andrés launched two concepts in 2024: a distillation of Oyamel called Butterfly on the sixth-floor rooftop, and Turkish/Mediterranean restaurant Zaytinya on the first floor.

The Culver City version of Butterfly is inspired by previous DC-area experiments with the same name and concept, effectively bringing a quarter of Oyamel’s recipes into a smaller space – this time, next to The Shay’s rooftop pool, similar to Airlight at the Conrad Hotel. That means you can choose from four types of tacos, four ceviches, two salads, five small plates, and several chip-and-salsa plates, plus one dessert. On our first visit in 2024, we ordered all of the tacos and ceviches, plus two of the small plates and drinks. Returning in early 2026, we were surprised to find little changed on the menu, and wound up sampling mostly similar items, plus queso fundido.

For the limited items it serves, Butterfly’s culinary execution has ranged from roughly 80% to 90% of Oyamel at its best: classic dishes such as the Atun Pacifico ceviche, made with tuna, pecans, and amaranth, leaned a little salty and low on that uniquely crispy grain, but otherwise good, while bass, shrimp, and coconut ceviches were all delicious – the latter borrowed from Andrés’ DC restaurant China Chilcano. By the time we made our second visit, only the tuna and coconut ceviches were available. On both visits, tacos arrived fresh, hot, and plump enough with their signature ingredients (adobo chicken, crispy rockfish, confit pork, or wild mushrooms) to be worthy of their individual $7 to $9 asking prices, though blue corn tortillas had given way to regular ones by early 2026.

Butterfly’s other items were arguably even stronger: crispy brussels sprouts with chile de arbol and pumpkin seeds are just one of Andrés’ restaurants many ways of proving naysayers wrong on this healthy veggie, but probably the best of them, while black garlic shrimp were every bit as delicious as at Oyamel and its Las Vegas sister restaurant China Poblano, just larger and juicier. The unexpected highlight of our first meal was a newer Oyamel dessert, Choco Flan, an “impossible cake” that magically fuses chocolate and flan layers together with the layers switching places during baking due to density changes. Between these perfectly integrated ingredients and its vanilla-coffee caramel sauce, the Choco Flan was so excellent that we would have fought over a single slice: two was the right number. Plans to expand the pastry offerings appeared to have stalled in 2025; small menu updates saw items like cookies appear and disappear, leaving Choco Flan as the only sweet option.

Across both visits, the beverages we sampled from a relatively short list were only okay. Drinks with and without alcohol weren’t particularly impressive, falling under normal José Andrés restaurant levels of excellence in flavors, presentation, and variety.

So while we’re generally happy that Los Angeles finally has the opportunity to experience part of Oyamel’s brilliance, Butterfly hasn’t spread its wings as much as expected after a year and a half. It’s a good restaurant, but we continue to hope for menu expansions that now seem long overdue.

Stats

Price: $$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2024

Addresses

8801 Washington Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232

312.356.0200

Instagram: @butterflybyjose