Sushi Love

Near John Wayne Airport, this highly obscure sushi concept operates inside another Irvine restaurant

On Sky Park Circle, a street near John Wayne Airport, the Koll Airport Business Center hosts two neighboring sushi restaurants – Sushi Atelier inside Smart Kitchens, Irvine’s best-known collection of ghost kitchens, and Sushi Love (sometimes styled Sushilove) inside Lynda’s African Delicacies, a restaurant that somehow has three other concepts operating inside. Though both of these places appear to have been inside Smart Kitchens at one point, such that maps and online searches for Sushi Love still might lead you to the wrong suite, they’re now separate.

And even by ghost kitchen standards, Sushi Love is especially spectral, with no social media presence, phone number, or Yelp page. You’ll only find it if you visit Lynda’s or if you visit an online delivery service such as Doordash. There’s an AI-generated sign in the window, and an AI-generated menu on the counter inside.

That menu is one side of a laminated piece of paper, and features four types of items: several basic Japanese appetizers ($5 to $19), six standard salads ($8 to $18), sushi rolls ($7 to $20), and a handful of canned or bottled drinks ($1.50 to $3.50). Unlike Sushi Atelier, there are neither nigiri on the menu nor any descriptions of the special rolls. And though you can ask the lone chef-slash-counter worker to explain what’s in a special roll once you press a doorbell button and ask for assistance, the answer may consist of just pointing at one of several pictures on the menu and expecting you to figure it out.

You can skip the mystery by finding the Doordash menu online, which actually explains each of the rolls and offers something that the chef doesn’t offer in person – a two-for-one deal on various rolls. If we’d had any idea this was available, it would have mitigated some of our meal’s costs or left us more filled, as we’d ordered a couple of eligible items in person without realizing there were two-for-one deals on them.

We tried a small collection of items to get a sense of whether it was worth diving deeper into the menu here, starting with a common spicy tuna handroll and somewhat less common spicy California handroll ($8.45 each). They were both completely fine in ingredient quality, but untraditionally garnished with sesame seeds, and a bit expensive for what they were. Both of their nori wrappers were soft from sitting too long before being served, even though we ate them at a nearby table immediately after they were handed off. Those ordering online can get two spicy California cut rolls for $9, a much better deal; given our experience, you should probably expect hand roll versions to be soggy if they’re being delivered to your address.

From the chef’s special rolls – always eight pieces, each served with every two pieces stuck together – we tried the classic crunch roll ($15), which looked and tasted as expected, with tempura shrimp, faux crabmeat, and a nice eel sauce glaze, but zero crunch in either the internal shrimp tempura or top garnish. Again, this item would have qualified for a two-for-one deal (at $16). A cajun tuna roll ($19) was nicely peppery and a little unique due to a soy mustard sauce that added an unfamiliar note to the Japanese-American classic. And the shocker, a Spanish roll ($18), actually tasted more like fusion Vietnamese-Japanese than anything European, pairing salmon, spicy tuna, tempura shrimp, and huge helpings of soy mustard sauce, minced jalapeno pepper, and grated cilantro. While a nightmare for those with the cilantro=soap taste gene, this was a delight for us, and easily the most memorable Americanized sushi we’ve tried in recent months.

The overall experience of ordering from and dining at Sushi Love isn’t great or really good; even by supermarket sushi standards, it’s as far from a “date night” Japanese destination as we could imagine, and we don’t see any need to return after our first visit. Based on the limited amount we’ve tried at Sushi Atelier, they differ more in choices and plating than quality and pricing – Atelier wins on the first two, and Sushi Love only has a small edge on the last one. That said, there are some nice flavors to be discovered here, and if you can take advantage of an online ordering system and promo, you’ll solve two of the multiple challenges that have kept this place from being better known.

Stats

Price: $$
Service: Counter
Open Since: 2024

Address

17951 Sky Park Cir. 35-J
Irvine, CA 92614