
Kéan Coffee Artisan Roasters
In Newport Beach and Tustin, heir to the legacy of Orange County's historic Diedrich Coffee empire
Founded in 2005 – a year after founder Martin Diedrich left the large Diedrich Coffee chain he’d built from Orange County since 1983 – Kéan Coffee remains a snapshot into a moment in time when thoughtfully located cafes would become neighborhood coffeehouses, actual community gathering places centered around high-quality coffee and pastries. During a period when Diedrich’s corporate pieces were being assimilated by Starbucks and Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, Kéan Coffee remained focused solely on two stores in Newport Beach and Tustin, the latter housed in the same location as the first Diedrich store (and now home to Gen Korean BBQ, Okidoki, Wahoo’s, and 7 Leaves).
Walking into that store today, you can still see the 1990s/early 2000s rounded interior design, Cheesecake Factory-style Italian decor/finish influences, and shelves of DIY home coffee gear, as well as crowds of people lining up at the counters and filling the tables. There’s still a charm and soul to Kéan that Starbucks lost so long ago that most of its current guests never knew it had; in our most recent visit, loyal Kéan customers and busy baristas took the time to interact as human beings, rather than just being there to place and fill numbered orders. At the same time, Kéan doesn’t offer wi-fi or power outlets, a deliberate move to make its locations places to socialize rather than to work or study. All of this adds up to the polar opposite experience of increasingly depersonalized, app-based “pick up and go” coffee vendors like Cotti Coffee – in a good way.
Though there are hints of prior cafe trends (hot sipping chocolate, chai and matcha lattes, acai shakes) in its offerings, Kéan also doesn’t appear to be chasing modern social media fads at all. The menu starts with espresso-based drinks ($3.75 to $6.50) that default to using fairly strong beans and whole milk, continues with hot and cold-brewed coffees ($3.50 to $7), mochas ($6.25 to $7.50), five-ounce melted “chocolate nirvanas” ($9), coffee or tea frappes ($7), ice cream-based shakes ($8), tea drinks ($4.50 to $7), Italian sodas ($5.25 to $5.75), and lemonades ($4.50 to $6.25). Ice cream ($5.50), affogatos ($8.50), acai bowls ($11.50), bagels, and pastries ($5 to $7.50) are all available to eat; baked goods can be served at room temperature or heated, as requested.
On our most recent visit to Kéan, items we ordered were solidly good: a Mayan spiced hot chocolate ($5.50/16 oz.) was strong in both chocolate and cinnamon flavors, topped with a generous but not overwhelming layer of whipped cream – offered rather than mandatory – and hot without scalding; an iced version of The Grasshopper, a mint and vanilla latte ($6.75), was boldly coffee-forward, obviously minted without tasting artificial, yet low in vanilla flavor, with too much ice. A double chocolate chip muffin ($5) and almond croissant ($7.50) were both very good, the former nearly as chocolatey as muffins can get, and the latter with a nice almond paste inside plus tons of sliced nuts and icing outside. Across each drink and food item, it was obvious that although balancing choices were made that will appeal more to some people than others, no corners were cut in ingredient quality.
This quality commitment has been consistent across prior visits, even dating back to Kéan’s early days, when the company’s only failing was being less aggressive with then-popular latte art than some other coffee shops – a milk omission offset back then by the founder’s atypically strong expertise in both coffee bean sourcing and roasting. These days, Kéan’s artistic frothing and coffee are both strong, particularly in hot drinks, so there’s no compromise.
Hundreds (likely thousands) of coffee shops have opened in Orange County since Kéan debuted, and though this micro-chain isn’t expanding, it has an undeniable role in growing local coffee culture and setting a better-than-Starbucks bar for quality. We plan to continue visiting whenever convenient.
Stats
Price: $
Service: Counter
Open Since: 2005
Addresses
13681 Newport Ave. #14
Tustin, CA 92780
714.838.5326
2043 Westcliff Dr. #100
Newport Beach, CA 92660
949.642.5326
Instagram: @keancoffee